Make a Mailbox -1
Make a Mailbox -2

To make the flag, cut a 1 ½ x 2 ½ inch piece of heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal. Along one 11/2-inch side, drill two 1/8-inch holes, ¼ inch in from the edge and 3/8 inch from the top and bottom.

Cut a 17-inch piece of  1/8 x 1/2 inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap. At one end, drill two 1/8-inch holes to match those drilled in the flag, with the top edge of the flag flush with the end of the strap and the side of the flag flush with the side of the strap. At the other end of the strap, drill a 5/32 -inch hole, centered ½ inch back from the end and on the longitudinal centerline of the strap. Fasten the flag to the strap with two 1/8-inch pop rivets.

Mark the center of the 1-inch-square plywood spacer block on the side of the box. Punch a small starter hole with a scratch awl, and drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screw partway in. Remove the screw, position the hole in the end of the flag arm over the hole in the plywood, and drive the screw tight, using a #8 flat washer between the flag arm and the plywood block. Then back the screw off just enough so that the flag arm moves freely.

Lower the flag arm. Near the flag, 1 inch up from the bottom of the box, drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead gal¬vanized or plated wood screw partway into the side of the box. This stop screw will keep the flag arm from falling past the bottom of the box.

Raise the flag until it’s tilted slightly forward -about 10 degrees past the vertical position-and mark the point where the arm crosses the edge of the top. Drive a 1-inch L-shaped screw hook into the edge of the top at this point. Screw the hook in far enough so that the flag arm can be pushed between the hook and the edge of the top; this holds the flag in place when it’s raised.

Unless the mailbox is made of cedar or redwood, apply a finish. Remove all hardware, and sand the entire box smooth. Apply whatever finish you like, but paint the flag bright red; leave the arm unfinished. After the finish is com¬pletely dry, add the box number and/or your name, if required or desired.

Replace the hardware. Mount the box solidly on a post or other support, using two 1 ½ -inch #10 lag screws, with washers, driven down through the bottom of the box.

Make a Mailbox -1
Apply carpenters’ glue to one end of the 19 1/4 x 9-inch bottom piece and set the 12 7/8  x 9-inch back piece against it so that the bottom edge of the back extends 5/8 inch below the bottom surface of the bottom. Fasten the back to the bottom with three 3-penny aluminum nails.

Lay the assembly on its side. Apply a bead of carpenters’ glue along the uppermost edge, and set one of the side pieces into place. One lower corner of the side should meet the lower corner of the back; the top edge should be flush with the top edge of the back, and the bottom edge should overlap the bottom by 5/8 inch. Secure the side piece with three 3-penny aluminum nails driven into the back piece, and five 3-penny nails into the bottom piece. Then turn the box over and fasten the other side the same way.

With a fine-toothed flat file, bevel each end of the top piece to a slight angle. Apply a bead of glue along the top edges of the sides and back, and set the top into position with the corners and bevels flush. Nail the top into place with six 3-penny aluminum nails spaced along each side, and two more spaced across the back.

To hold the box closed, use a small knob or a door pull with a magnetic catch. Center the knob or door pull about 2 inches down from the top edge of the front piece, and fasten it with the hardware provided.

Secure two butt hinges to the bottom edge of the door; instead of using the screws provided with the hinges, substitute others of the same diameter but ½  inch longer than the originals. Set the mailbox upside down-on its top-and set the door into position. Fold the free hinge leaves out flat on the bottom of the box, and adjust the door until there’s 1/16 inch clearance at its top edge and along each side. Secure the hinges to the bottom of the box with the screws provided. If further fitting is needed, carefully shave the door edges with a file until the door operates without binding or scraping.

Mount the magnetic catch body centered on the underside of the top piece, with its face 2 1/8 inches back from the front edge of the top. Mount the catch plate centered on the inside of the door, flush with the top edge. Then move the catch body forward slightly until the door plate makes positive contact with the catch and the door is vertical. Tighten the catch body mounting screws.

Cut a 1-inch square of plywood. Apply glue to one side and center the plywood square on the side at a point 1 inch above the bottom of the box and 4 inches back from the lower front corner. Secure the plywood square with two 1-inch brads.

A sturdy, good-looking rural mailbox is easy to make from plywood or scrap cedar or redwood siding. Tools: measuring rule, pencil, carpenters’ square, straightedge, handsaw or power saw, fine-toothed flat file, hammer, tin snips, electric drill, pop rivet tool, scratch awl, screwdriver, paintbrush.

Materials: 5/8 inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding; sandpaper, carpenters’ glue, 3-penny aluminum nails, small doorknob or door pull with magnetic catch, butt hinges and screws ½ inch longer than screws provided, 1-inch brads, heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal, 1/8 x ½ inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap, pop rivets, 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screws and #8 flat washer, 1-inch L shaped screw hook, paint or stain and red paint, 1 ½ inch #10 lag screws with washers. Time: about 2 to 3 hours, plus finishing time.

To make the mailbox, use 5/8-inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding. A homemade rural mailbox must be approved by your local postmaster, so submit plans and a list of materials before you make the box. According to U.S. Postal Service regulations, a custom-built box must conform generally to the same requirements as approved manufactured boxes relative to flag, size, strength, and quality of construction. There are three standard approved sizes : 19 inches long, 6 ½  inches wide, and 8 ½  inches high; 21 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 10 ½  inches high; and 23 ½ inches long, 11 ½ inches wide, and 13 ½  inches high. Plan your mailbox to roughly conform to one of these sizes, or to be between the largest and smallest standard sizes.

The box can be painted any color you like, but the Postal Service prefers that the box and its supports be white. If a box number is required, it should be painted or affixed in a contrasting color in characters not less than 1 inch high on the side of the box facing the mail carrier. If there are several boxes in a group, the number of each box should be on its door. Placing your name on the box is optional. Posts or other supports for the box must be neat and strong; locks are not necessary, although they can be used.

To make the box, cut the six main pieces from 5/8-inch exterior plywood or siding: for the top, a piece 23 ½  x 11 ½ inches; for the bottom, a piece 19 ¼  x 9 inches; for the sides, two pieces each 23 5/6 inches long at the top and 20 ½  inches long at the bottom, with each end cut to equal meeting angles; for the back, a piece 12 7/8  x 9 inches; and for the door, a piece 12 3/16  x 8 7/8 inches. Trim and smooth the edges of all pieces.