Posts from — June 2009

Live like kings

Backyard pond is not just for the smutty rich person. Today, even out the barest homeo wner can attain their own backyard pond as deluxe as the wealthy lands.

Once you get your back yard pond set up, it would provide both fun and enjoyment. It also provides a dwelling place for the fish, wildlife, aquatic plants and flowers. It is a relaxing hobby that not only provides relaxation but appreciation to Mother Nature as well.

Plan Ahead

Building your own backyard pond may not be extremely hard to built but thorough planning should be placed in constructing one. The hardest part in building one is digging the pond. It all depends on what type of soil your region has. This determines how easy or how strenuous the digging part would be.

The size and shape of the pond depends on your preferences. It can be a small, preformed pond or one that needs a pond liner that can hold up to seven thousand gallons of water.

Location

Consider the location of your pond. Where would it be best seen? Picture yourself sitting outside. What location grabs your eye the most? Consider these important elements. Is the water source situated just nearby? Is your pond’s location a flat area? Is electrical supply available? Keep in mind that these are just some questions you need to be answered.

Equipment

Building a pond of any size requires a complete set of tools. Now, take hold of these important equipment. In building and constructing a pond, one must need a water pump, a UV filter, a pond filter, and some pond plants among many. Other must haves are the following: a pond liner of appropriate size, an air diffuser, pond lightings, a skimmer, the aquatic animals, and fish food.

Cost

Another thing to consider in pond building is the cost. Initially, constructing and maintaining the pond could be quite expensive, that is with no doubt. But there are now cheaper do it yourself kits available in the market. Once it is finished, the enjoyment it brings is worth it.

Another plus for the backyard pond is that it turns an oh-so-boring piece of land into a thing of beauty. It works best if you have the proper landscape to go with your pond. Make your pond the centerpiece of your back yard.

However, because of too many do-it-yourself homeowners, they usually make mistakes. Following these guidelines may help you avoid the pitfalls of do it yourself backyard pond disasters.

Initially, it is important to incorporate your pond to the current landscape of your backyard. This works best for amateur landscapers who just wanted to get right down to work. Do not let your pond detract the beauty of your yard. Make it fit and not out of place.

To Sum It Up

Integrate your pond’s design to your landscape. Do not make it lavish if you have a very simple backyard. Take time to choose the design that may flatter the overall landscaping.

Secondly, think of the essential requirements of a pond. Do not place your pond in complete shade since this will hamper the amount of sunlight to your pond. Aquatic animals and plants need ample amount of the warmth of the sun.

Finally, size does matter. Plant the size of your pond. Do not place too much fish on a small pond. Experiment on a variety of aquatic plants.

Provide luster and relaxation to your yard as well as increase your property’s value. Make your backyard more attractive and enjoyable by adding a backyard pond.

Home interior decorating is a perfect opportunity for you to express yourself. Home interior decorating allows you to showcase your interests; interests in furniture, art and even different cultures. Every decorating style is different, with some being elaborate while others are plain. However, there is a home interior decorating style to suit your personality as well as your budget.

Budget is usually at the top of the list when making plans for home interior decorating. It is easy to look at a picture and want to recreate it in your space. Sometimes the details in home decorating pictures are quite expensive which may introduce obstacles for you. There’s no need to be disheartened however, there are always alternate ideas to help you achieve your ideal space. Resources such as magazines, books, television programs and Internet websites are very helpful with suggestions and ideas for home interior decorating. Using these resources you’re bound to find alternatives to any problems you may have with home interior decorating.

If you are an individual who loves color and authentic home interior decorating, there are several designs to choose from. Primitive home interior decorating is interesting because it concentrates on old and handmade items. This is a wonderful opportunity to display collectables and handed down treasures. This style suggests using accessories and furniture which appear extremely old, worn, stained or antique. If you are a person who likes antiques, primitive interior decorating might be right for you. When choosing a paint color for this design, dark and warm shades are recommended. Deep grey or red brick would work well in this space.

Another home interior decorating design that you may find interesting is whimsical decorating. This design allows you to go wild with your imagination. Using any and all of your favourite colors, you space should be decorated thoroughly with various patterns and colors. This home interior decorating design is all about color. The important detail to remember however is, if you choose bold vibrant colors, stay within that hue of color. If you decide to use pastel colors, stick with colors in the pastel palette.

If you have difficulty moving from the past into modern home interior decorating, traditional design may be for you. This home interior decorating style combines the modern look with the elegant look of the past. Space is important in the traditional design. To help create a spacious atmosphere, neutral colors such as neutral, beige or mushroom is recommended for the walls. To add a punch of color to this traditional design, darker colors such as burgundy, mauve, blues and greens are suggested for the upholstery, fabric, rugs, etc. When choosing accessories for this home interior decorating design, china and crystal objects will compliment this style. You might also like to add some artwork to your space. Paintings with wood frames go great with this traditional theme.

There are just three of the many designs for home interior decorating. There are many and there is one, just for you. Browsing sources about home interior decorating designs will give you a better idea of their characteristics regarding color, furnishings, flooring and accessories. With your individual tastes and interests at the forefront, you ought to be able to find a style that works for you. Home interior decorating can turn your home into an oasis of pure enjoyment.

Water gardens and backyard ponds are for butterflies, frogs, birds, fish, you, and the whole family. These ponds may be small, may even be no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. These may be built in patio containers and barrels. Drawing wildlife in your backyard may be done by adding water gardens and ponds. These will not only provide enjoyment and interest but also a natural and relaxing environment as well.

A fish pond in your backyard may become the focal point of your backyard conversation. So spice it up with this tips and techniques.

Where to Put Up a Backyard Pond

Place your fish pond in a place where you can best view it from, whether from a deck or the patio. Make it coincide with the natural surroundings. Do not place the pond where the sun can overheat it. Nestle it in a shaded place but not under the trees.

Landscaping

It is best to slightly elevate the soil surrounding the pond so that excess water will not enter into it. Plan the drainage system of the pond, making sure that it draws the water away from your house.

Landscaping the surroundings around your pond will provide a natural dwelling place for birds and frogs that need water and land. Make sure that electricity is available if you plan to use lights, filters, or a water re-circulating device.

Do not place the pond under the trees to avoid fallen leaves into the pond. This technique will also provide less maintenance to the pond. Expose the pond to sufficient sunlight only since some aquatic plats grow well in full sun and others do not.

Using Pond Liners

Pond liners are used to keep water from leaking into the soil. It is almost always necessary for ponds even if it they are situated in clay soils. Pond liners come in different shapes and sizes. They even include built in waterfalls or any design based on your preferences. They are durable and convenient.

Consider a polyvinyl chloride liner (PVC liner) in building larger ponds. In determining the size of the PVC, you have to know the maximum length, width, and depth of the pond. After which, multiply the maximum depth by 3. Add the answer to the width and the length. Now you have enough PVC to securely hold down the pond edges.

Pond liners come in different thickness as well. The thicker the pond liner, the more resistant it is to punctures. Cement may be considered an optional pool liner. However, it requires more expertise to install and it may cost more than the regular plastic pond liner.

However, considering that many ponds are quite small, other plastics may be used. It may be cheaper but many may break down easily once prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light happens. Some plastics also may prove to be toxic to fish.

Pond Installation

Time your pond building when the ground is not overly wet or frozen. Dig the hole according to the right depth and place (and secure) the pond liner. Then landscape the pond surroundings. Remove any rocks from the surrounding area. Add water, plants, and a pump. Let the pond sit for a few days before adding plants and fish. Let the plants settle for at least one week before placing the fish.

Then sit back and enjoy your backyard fish pond!

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Live Healthy Everyday

To four cupfuls of flour, add one egg well beaten, and enough water to make a dough that can be rolled. Roll thin on a breadboard and cut into strips. Dry in the sun. The best arrangement for this purpose is a wooden frame to which a square of cheese-cloth has been tightly tacked, upon which the macaroni may be laid in such a way as not to touch, and afterwards covered with a cheese-cloth to keep off the dust during the drying.

Boiled macaroni

Put a larg cup of macaroni into boiling water and cook until tender. When done, drained thoroughly, then add a pint of milk, part cream if it can be afforded, a little salt and one well-beaten egg; stir over the fire until it thickens, and serve hot.

Macaroni with cream sauce

Cook the macaroni as directed in the proceeding, and serve with a cream sauce prepared by heating a scant pint of rich milk to boiling, in a double boiler. When boiling, add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smoothed in a little milk and one fourth teaspoonful of salt. If desired, the sauce may be flavored by steeping in the milk before thickening for ten or fifteen minutes, a slice of onion or a few bits of celery, and then removing with a fork.

Macaroni with tomato sauce

Drop a cup of macaroni into boiling milk and water, equal parts. Let it boil for an hour, or until perfectly tender. In the meantime prepare the sauce by rubbing a pint of stewed or canned tomatoes through a colander to remove all seeds and fragments. Heat to boiling, thicken with a little flour; a tablespoonful to the pint will be about the requisite proportion. Add salt and if desired, a half cup of very thin sweet cream. Dish the macaroni into individual dishes, and serve with a small quantity of the sauce poured over each dish.

Macaroni baked with granola

Cook a large cup of macaroni until tender in boiling milk and water. When done, drain and put a layer of the macaroni in the bottom of a pudding dish, and sprinkle over it a scant teaspoonful of granola. Add a second and third layer and sprinkle each with granola; then turn over the whole a custard sauce prepared by mixing together a pint of milk, the well beaten yolks of two eggs or one whole egg, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Care should be taken to arrange the macaroni in layers loosely, so that the sauce will readily permeate the whole. Bake for a few minutes only, until the custard has well set, and serve.

Eggs and macaroni

Cook a cup of macaroni in boiling water. While the macaroni is cooking, boil the yolks of four eggs until mealy. The whole egg may be used if caught so the yolks are mealy in the whites simply jellied, not hardened. When the macaroni is done, drain and put a layer of it arranged loosely in the bottom of a pudding dish. Slice the cooked egg yolks and spread a layer of them over the macaroni. Fill the dish with alternate layers of macaroni and egg, taking care to have the top layer of macaroni. Pour over the whole a cream sauce prepared as follows: Heat one and three fourths cup of rich milk to boiling, add one fourth teaspoonful of salt and one heaping spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Cook until thickened, then turn over the macaroni. Sprinkle the top with grated bread crumbs, and brown in a hot oven for eight or ten minutes. Serve hot.

Make a Mailbox -1
Make a Mailbox -2

To make the flag, cut a 1 ½ x 2 ½ inch piece of heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal. Along one 11/2-inch side, drill two 1/8-inch holes, ¼ inch in from the edge and 3/8 inch from the top and bottom.

Cut a 17-inch piece of  1/8 x 1/2 inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap. At one end, drill two 1/8-inch holes to match those drilled in the flag, with the top edge of the flag flush with the end of the strap and the side of the flag flush with the side of the strap. At the other end of the strap, drill a 5/32 -inch hole, centered ½ inch back from the end and on the longitudinal centerline of the strap. Fasten the flag to the strap with two 1/8-inch pop rivets.

Mark the center of the 1-inch-square plywood spacer block on the side of the box. Punch a small starter hole with a scratch awl, and drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screw partway in. Remove the screw, position the hole in the end of the flag arm over the hole in the plywood, and drive the screw tight, using a #8 flat washer between the flag arm and the plywood block. Then back the screw off just enough so that the flag arm moves freely.

Lower the flag arm. Near the flag, 1 inch up from the bottom of the box, drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead gal¬vanized or plated wood screw partway into the side of the box. This stop screw will keep the flag arm from falling past the bottom of the box.

Raise the flag until it’s tilted slightly forward -about 10 degrees past the vertical position-and mark the point where the arm crosses the edge of the top. Drive a 1-inch L-shaped screw hook into the edge of the top at this point. Screw the hook in far enough so that the flag arm can be pushed between the hook and the edge of the top; this holds the flag in place when it’s raised.

Unless the mailbox is made of cedar or redwood, apply a finish. Remove all hardware, and sand the entire box smooth. Apply whatever finish you like, but paint the flag bright red; leave the arm unfinished. After the finish is com¬pletely dry, add the box number and/or your name, if required or desired.

Replace the hardware. Mount the box solidly on a post or other support, using two 1 ½ -inch #10 lag screws, with washers, driven down through the bottom of the box.

Make a Mailbox -1
Apply carpenters’ glue to one end of the 19 1/4 x 9-inch bottom piece and set the 12 7/8  x 9-inch back piece against it so that the bottom edge of the back extends 5/8 inch below the bottom surface of the bottom. Fasten the back to the bottom with three 3-penny aluminum nails.

Lay the assembly on its side. Apply a bead of carpenters’ glue along the uppermost edge, and set one of the side pieces into place. One lower corner of the side should meet the lower corner of the back; the top edge should be flush with the top edge of the back, and the bottom edge should overlap the bottom by 5/8 inch. Secure the side piece with three 3-penny aluminum nails driven into the back piece, and five 3-penny nails into the bottom piece. Then turn the box over and fasten the other side the same way.

With a fine-toothed flat file, bevel each end of the top piece to a slight angle. Apply a bead of glue along the top edges of the sides and back, and set the top into position with the corners and bevels flush. Nail the top into place with six 3-penny aluminum nails spaced along each side, and two more spaced across the back.

To hold the box closed, use a small knob or a door pull with a magnetic catch. Center the knob or door pull about 2 inches down from the top edge of the front piece, and fasten it with the hardware provided.

Secure two butt hinges to the bottom edge of the door; instead of using the screws provided with the hinges, substitute others of the same diameter but ½  inch longer than the originals. Set the mailbox upside down-on its top-and set the door into position. Fold the free hinge leaves out flat on the bottom of the box, and adjust the door until there’s 1/16 inch clearance at its top edge and along each side. Secure the hinges to the bottom of the box with the screws provided. If further fitting is needed, carefully shave the door edges with a file until the door operates without binding or scraping.

Mount the magnetic catch body centered on the underside of the top piece, with its face 2 1/8 inches back from the front edge of the top. Mount the catch plate centered on the inside of the door, flush with the top edge. Then move the catch body forward slightly until the door plate makes positive contact with the catch and the door is vertical. Tighten the catch body mounting screws.

Cut a 1-inch square of plywood. Apply glue to one side and center the plywood square on the side at a point 1 inch above the bottom of the box and 4 inches back from the lower front corner. Secure the plywood square with two 1-inch brads.

A sturdy, good-looking rural mailbox is easy to make from plywood or scrap cedar or redwood siding. Tools: measuring rule, pencil, carpenters’ square, straightedge, handsaw or power saw, fine-toothed flat file, hammer, tin snips, electric drill, pop rivet tool, scratch awl, screwdriver, paintbrush.

Materials: 5/8 inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding; sandpaper, carpenters’ glue, 3-penny aluminum nails, small doorknob or door pull with magnetic catch, butt hinges and screws ½ inch longer than screws provided, 1-inch brads, heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal, 1/8 x ½ inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap, pop rivets, 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screws and #8 flat washer, 1-inch L shaped screw hook, paint or stain and red paint, 1 ½ inch #10 lag screws with washers. Time: about 2 to 3 hours, plus finishing time.

To make the mailbox, use 5/8-inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding. A homemade rural mailbox must be approved by your local postmaster, so submit plans and a list of materials before you make the box. According to U.S. Postal Service regulations, a custom-built box must conform generally to the same requirements as approved manufactured boxes relative to flag, size, strength, and quality of construction. There are three standard approved sizes : 19 inches long, 6 ½  inches wide, and 8 ½  inches high; 21 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 10 ½  inches high; and 23 ½ inches long, 11 ½ inches wide, and 13 ½  inches high. Plan your mailbox to roughly conform to one of these sizes, or to be between the largest and smallest standard sizes.

The box can be painted any color you like, but the Postal Service prefers that the box and its supports be white. If a box number is required, it should be painted or affixed in a contrasting color in characters not less than 1 inch high on the side of the box facing the mail carrier. If there are several boxes in a group, the number of each box should be on its door. Placing your name on the box is optional. Posts or other supports for the box must be neat and strong; locks are not necessary, although they can be used.

To make the box, cut the six main pieces from 5/8-inch exterior plywood or siding: for the top, a piece 23 ½  x 11 ½ inches; for the bottom, a piece 19 ¼  x 9 inches; for the sides, two pieces each 23 5/6 inches long at the top and 20 ½  inches long at the bottom, with each end cut to equal meeting angles; for the back, a piece 12 7/8  x 9 inches; and for the door, a piece 12 3/16  x 8 7/8 inches. Trim and smooth the edges of all pieces.

Install Wall-to-Wall Carpeting -1
Install Wall-to-Wall Carpeting -2
Install Wall-to-Wall Carpeting -3

When all the padding has been set into position, trim off the edges overlapping the fastening strips. Use a utility knife with a sharp heavy-duty blade to trim the excess padding; holding the knife at an angle toward you, cut the padding off exactly where it meets the inside edge of the fastening strips. The surface of the padding should be more or less level with the surface of the fastening strips.

Finally, unroll the carpeting over the padding and pull it carefully into position, overlapping the fastening strips all around the room. Slit the folded-up carpeting vertically where it goes around corners, being careful not to cut past the overlap into the main carpet, so that the edges lie flat against both corner walls. Make straight cuts and crosscuts to fit the carpeting around radiators and other obstructions; don’t cut holes in the carpet to accommodate them. Trim carefully around open floor registers, leaving a slight overlap.

Attach the carpeting to the fastening strips with the knee kicker. Starting in a corner, set the head of the kicker flat on the carpet, about an inch from the wall and aimed slightly down and at an angle to the wall. Kneeling on the floor at the corner, hold the handle of the kicker with one hand and lean on the floor with the other. Put all your weight on the knee opposite the arm holding the kicker and move your other knee forward sharply to hit the cushioned end of the kicker. The head of the kicker will stretch the carpeting under it to hook it’ onto the teeth of the fastening strip at the edge of the floor, leaving an untrimmed edge of carpeting still sticking up against the wall. Repeat the kicking process to fasten the carpeting on the opposite wall of the corner.

After kicking the first corner of the room into place, fasten the two adjacent corners the same way, leaving the diagonally opposite corner loose. Then work from your starting corner out along the two walls of the corner, holding the just-fastened carpeting in place with one hand and using the other to kick the next few inches of carpeting. Make sure the carpeting lies flat and doesn’t shift as you work. Fasten the third side of the carpet, working toward the loose corner, and then fasten the fourth side.

Use a utility knife with a sharp heavy-duty blade to trim the edges of the carpeting, and replace the blade as soon as it begins to dull. Cut off the turned-up edge of carpeting evenly, leaving about 3/8 inch still sticking up above the tacked-down edge. Cut carefully, and snip off any ragged tufts of yarn.

To complete the installation, use a stiff putty knife to wedge the trimmed edge of the carpeting down into the ¼  -inch gap between the walls and the fastening strips. Press the cut edge of the carpeting firmly into place all around the room. To finish the edge at doorways, trim the carpet edge carefully to fit under the curved rim of the door finishing strip. Push the raw carpet edge under the rim and use a hammer and a wood block to pound the rim firmly down over the carpet edge.

Finally, replace floor registers-you may have to trim the carpet edge back farther, but cut carefully. Replace quarter-round baseboard molding if you removed it earlier, and rehang the doors. If the new carpeting and padding are much thicker than the old floor covering, you’ll probably have to plane the bottom edge of each door so it can open and close easily. Remove the door from its hinges and plane the bot’ tom edge carefully, planing from both ends toward the center. Rehang the door. Move the furniture back into the room.